For melanin-rich people, hyperpigmentation continues to be something of great concern. Why is this so? The presence of the skin pigment melanin happens to be very abundant in the skin cells of brown skin people. This means that there is a high chance for excess melanin to be produce once these skin cells containing the pigment is triggered by a stressor.
It’ll get a bit scientific in a bit as we try to go through the process of how hyperpigmentation can be treated so as to have a better understanding of why and how these active ingredients work to treat hyperpigmentation.
What is hyperpigmentation?
In simpler term, it is basically dark spots and darker areas on the skin, which is caused by excessive production of the skin pigment – melanin, in those areas of the skin.
There are many factors that contribute to the production of excessive melanin that causes hyperpigmentation. The different types of hyperpigmentation are classified mostly based on their causes;
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation follows after a traumatic event on the skin. inflammation from injury on the skin can be a trigger for the pigment-containing skin cells to produce excess melanin on the site of the wound when the skin is healing. Such can be seen in cases of acne.
Sunspots/age spots is a type of hyperpigmentation occurring due to environmental factors. The sun rays, especially UVB and UVA rays, can induce hyperpigmentation by acting as stressors to the skin. They penetrate the epidermis (UVB) and the dermis (UVA) of the skin and trigger the skin cells containing melanin to produce more and more melanin.
Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that happens due to hormonal changes. Any condition that predisposes to high levels of hormones such as and especially pregnancy, other gynecological conditions, or even contraceptives, can lead to hyperpigmentation in areas of the body. It mostly affects the face and stomach.
In treating hyperpigmentation, the methods applied have to work on affecting the production of melanin. There are several pathways and process that takes place for melanin to be produced. The active ingredients that prevent or treat hyperpigmentation target these pathways in other to prevent or stop the production of excessive melanin. This is also why it is advisable to combine treatments for hyperpigmentation, as each active ingredient takes effect at different stages of melanin production. The combined effects of the actives guarantees better results.
The treatment of hyperpigmentation is based on an increased epidermal turnover with the removal of pigment(melanin) in the superficial layer (glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and lactic acid), increase in melanosome transfer, and downregulation of tyrosinase (Tretinoin), reduced melanocyte proliferation, melanocyte secretory function, and inhibition of inflammation (corticosteroids) and inhibition of enzyme tyrosinase with decrease melanogenesis (hydroquinone, which should be used by prescription and for short term only).
Vitamin C is an antioxidant, which is an incredibly important quality that plays a role in combating dark spots. It works to inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps to prevent melanin production. It’s an antioxidant that brightens the skin and promotes collagen production. Plus, it significantly lightens pigmentation but doesn’t lighten normal skin.
Niacinamide acts as a lightening agent by inhibiting melanosome/melanin transfer from melanocytes(cells producing melanin) to keratinocytes(cells of the skin). it also has several benefits including enhanced barrier function, improve skin hydration, unclog pores, enhanced appearance of photo aged facial skin, and reduced sebum production.
Alpha Arbutin (more stable than beta Arbutin) is a derivative of hydroquinone, but without the melanotoxic effect. Its depigmenting mechanism is by reversibly suppressing melanosomal tyrosinase activity(an enzyme that helps in melanin production) there by preventing and fading dark spots. It also helps fade scars and evens out the skin tone.
Retinoids which becomes retinoic acid when in contact with the skin, works by prompting surface skin cells to turn over rapidly, making way for new cell growth underneath. They inhibit the breakdown of collagen and promote its production, thickening the deeper layer of skin, and increasing epidermal turnover. So for the brown spots that give the skin an uneven tone, retinoids slough them off and curb the production of melanin.
Licorice is a antioxidant & anti-inflammatoty and also natural skin lightening agent because its extract contains an active called glabridin & liquirtitin which inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that causes pigmentation in response to sun exposure. It is also very gentle and has calming effects on the skin.
Rucinol (4-n-butylresorcinol) is a potent lightening agent and has been shown to inhibit the activity of both tyrosinase and TRP-1 which play an important role in melanogenesis(production of melanin pigment)
Zinc glycinate decreases melanin production by significantly suppressing melanocyte proliferation/build up. It works by stimulating the production of an antioxidant- metallothionein – a peptide that inhibits the secretion of melanin cell growth and factors produced by skin cells when hit by UVB rays, leading to less discoloration and a brighter complexion.
Glutathione, being a strong antioxidant with additional powerful anti-melanogenic properties, causes direct or indirect inhibition of tyrosinase, an enzyme that helps with melanin production, switching production of eumelanin to phaeomelanin (less pigmented), & modulation of depigmenting properties and other anti-melanogenic properties.
Tranexamic acid fades discoloration, brightens skin, and reduces the appearance of acne scars. Works by inhibiting plasminogen activation. Plasminogen activator induces tyrosinase activity, resulting in increased melanin synthesis. By inhibiting plasminogen activation, tranexamic acid reduces UV radiation–induced melanogenesis and neovascularization.
AHAs work by removing the top layers of dead skin cells, helps reduce pigmentation, refresh the top layer of the skin, and improve the appearance of discolored scars. BHAs soften and dissolve keratin(keratolysis) & helps to loosen dead skin cells, so they’re easily sloughed off, fading marks and evening out skin tone.
Kojic acid is a natural lightening agent and its depigmenting ability originates from a potent inhibition of tyrosinase by chelating copper at the active site of the enzyme inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin production. It has increased sensitizing potential so should be used with caution.
And there’re more.
The good news is that PIH can fade away over time, even without treatment. But time is the operative word here. It can take three to 24 months for PIH to fully fade, although in some cases it may take longer. The length of time it takes for PIH to fade depends on how dark the spot is compared to the surrounding skin, the type and severity of the hyperpigmentation and certain trigger factors(acne, UV rays, friction, eczema, hormones etc) should be considered.
Some cosmetic procedures can also lighten areas of skin to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Cosmetic procedures for hyperpigmentation include:
- laser therapy
- intense pulsed light
- chemical peels
- microdermabrasion
People who are considering undergoing one of these procedures should discuss the process and possible side effects with a skincare specialist, or dermatologist.
